Tuesday, August 8, 2017

The wagon is running.

It's nice when your project car comes down from the stands and is ready to be driven.  It's nicer when the project is complete...but were not close to that yet.

The wagon is running and there are some creaks and clunks to get sorted out at slow speeds but once you're moving it feels so good.

New RPF1s w/ Ray's lugs were put on with the same rubber as before (Potenza RE71-R 205/50)


Big plans in the works which I'll keep under wraps for now (there will be at least one photoshoot!) but I should have updates soon.

Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Find your center.

Alignment done at Big Bear Tire in Oconomowoc, WI.   Can't say enough good stuff about their shop.  Jason who was doing my alignment and corner balancing (as well as helping with some other suspension component questions) called me 3 times during the day to review my settings, and ask questions to make sure they were doing it as per my specification.  Awesome stuff.

Photos of the setup will happen this weekend and then I'll start working on odds and ends:

- Put on skid plate and plastics
- Replace rubber shifter bushings with poly
- Weld the shifter 'box' to further strengthen the shift assembly
- Adjust shift cables for smoother shifting



Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Soon.

Before my week long motorcycle trip down to GA and then back up to Road America for the Superbike weekend I got the motor mounted, drive shaft in place, axles in, and LCAs connected.  The Wagon is back on the ground!!

I'll need to adjust the suspension a little after changing from the 16" Fit wheels to the 15" RPF1s but I think it's gonna look awesome.  This week I'll work on wiring it back up and hopefully delivering it to the exhaust guy late this week!




Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Details, details.

Some other small bits I did that might escape the view of the overall build.

1. Tightened up the RT4WD shifter.  As new bushings aren't available anymore I thought why not just take up that wear by decreasing the space the bushing has to move.  The shifter feels much tighter after making this mod.  We used some metal banding and cut it to fit and tacked it to the bottom of the bushing area.





2. Stage 2 clutches 'ain't nothin' to fuck with.  So we welded in a bracket to strengthen the OEM pedal assembly.  It's not a lot, but it should prevent the thin punched out metal from the factory from bending.



3. Swapped over a cluster.  8k EDM cluster is dope, but it's not a 1-1 swap.  You have to take everything out of one housing and put in your OEM cluster. It's an evening of work, but damn if it doesn't look good installed. 







It's been a long time since I left you...

I did stuff, I didn't do stuff.  Time passed, did some more stuff.  That's the long and short of it.

Lets get right into the current status of the wagon project.

Interior is basically done, a little more wiring for fog lights but the EDM 8k cluster is in and new fancy EDM mats cut to fit.



I assembled the motor and added a lightened flywheel (9lb as advertised) and ACT stage 2 clutch.



Quaife quicker steering rack in place.  New manual rack, manual subframe and quaife rack and pinion gear in!  You need to modify your rack to get the quaife gearing to fit, so look into it before ordering.





Also changed the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner.



At some other point I changed out the bushings in the front control arms with HardRace bushings.



There was an attempt to modify the manual mount to work with the auto bracket.  It didn't work.




We then tried to make a new mount that we would use in place of the OEM mount but the prototype was too close to the shifting mechanism housing on the transmission and even V2 didn't fit well enough.  We could have filled it with the center point of the mount being low, but I didn't think it would be a good long term solution.




I contacted Innovative mounts and they were open to the idea of making a custom mount for the swap (how awesome would that have been!) but then I realized that with the failure of the prototypes a custom mount wouldn't really work either.  There just isn't enough clearance using the AT mount.

So with that realization there was only one solution.  Find an manual RT4WD mount and harvest it.  Luckily I knew of one nearby and went to work.  It was a PITA getting it out without full access to the engine bay and it was a bit of a hack and bend job, but I got it out.





Next step was to repeat the process on my car, prep it and get ready for welding.\




Welding!  A big shout out to my friend Alan for coming over to my place to weld.



Now, at long last the engine is ready to go in!



So what's left?


  • Install motor
  • Modify header if needed to fit past oil pan
  • Mount the Mishimoto 1/2 radiator and fan and see if the Mishimoto hose kit fits.
  • Drive the car to the exhaust shop for the HKS exhaust to be custom fit. 
I would really, really like to get that stuff done this weekend.  Fingers crossed. 

Monday, January 23, 2017

So. Close.

Suspension is all connected, steering completed motor was ready and willing after a timing belt and water pump change.  All was go.

Moved motor into place and hit my jack stand, ahh, Ill just get my floor jack and lift the car up a bit to move the jack stands.  Or my jack seal will fail and I won't be able to do anything. Fack.



It's dead Jim.

Thursday, January 12, 2017

R.T. Quaife Engineering, Ltd.

1. Quaife shorter rack won't fit power steering.  Doh.
2. Quaife shorter rack kit isn't a direct fit replacement. Doh. (totally my fault)
3. Order manual rack and used manual rear engine subframe.
4. Have manual rack machined for new larger pinion gear.
5. Install!!







Tuesday, January 10, 2017


I copied this source code for the website: http://www.angelfire.com/dc/igone/zcswap.html as I'm concerned with the liklihood of anglefire remaining a valid server.


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<p align="center"><b>ZC Swap Info</b></p>
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td vAlign="top" width="25%">
<p align="left"><em><strong><font color="#FFFFFF" face="Arial Narrow">Engine
Identification</font></strong></em><font color="#FFFFFF" face="Arial Narrow">
&nbsp;&nbsp;</font></p>
</td>
<td width="75%"><font size="2"><font color="#FFFFFF">D16A8&nbsp; ~
European model - fuel injected</font>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">D16A9 ~ European model - carburated</font></p>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">ZC ~ Japanese model - fuel injected</font></font></p>
<font size="2">
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">ZC's have a black valve cover with the cover
bolts on the sides and the Honda symbol on the exhaust side of the valve
cover.&nbsp; They come with a 4-2-1 style exhaust header and a small oil
to water oil cooler on the back of the block.&nbsp; The engine mounts
are the same as the 88-91 Civic/CRX.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="#FFFFFF">Note - be sure it has a black valve
cover with the cover bolts on the front and back edges of the valve
cover and that it is a DOHC design.&nbsp;&nbsp; There is an older ZC
with a brown valve cover that you don't want!&nbsp; Also watch out for
the Integra motors which look identicle to the ZC except for the valve
cover bolts are not on the edges of the cover, this motor will not bolt
into the CRX.</font></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tr>
<td vAlign="top" width="25%">
<p align="left"><em><strong><font color="#FFFFFF"><font face="Arial Narrow">Technical
Specs</font>&nbsp;&nbsp;</font></strong></em></p>
</td>
<td style="LINE-HEIGHT: normal" noWrap width="75%"><font size="2"><font color="#FFFFFF">1.6L&nbsp;
(1590 cc) (97 ci) DOHC</font>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">130 hp @ 6800 rpm</font></p>
<p style="LINE-HEIGHT: normal"><font color="#FFFFFF">Bore 75.0&nbsp; mm
(2.95 inches)</font></p>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">Stroke 90.0mm (3.5 inches)</font></p>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">C.R. 9.5:1 for the Japanese model</font></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="#FFFFFF">C.R. 9.3:1 for the European model</font></p>
<p style="margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0"><font size="2" color="#FF0000">ZC
redlines @ 7200 rpm&nbsp;&nbsp;</font></p>
<p style="margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0">&nbsp;</p>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td vAlign="top" width="22%">
<p align="left"><strong><em><font color="#FFFFFF" face="Arial Narrow">Swap&nbsp;
Info</font></em></strong></p>
</td>
<td width="78%">
<ul>
<li><font size="2" color="#FFFFFF">The ZC bolts right in to the 88-91
Civic/CRX with&nbsp; no fabricating or welding. If your car is an Si
or HF the wiring harness will hook right up with just the change of
2 wires on the distributor.&nbsp; If it is a DX then some more
significant wiring changes are necessary since the DX motor does not
have MPFI </font><font size="1"><font color="#FFFFFF">(Multi Point
Fuel Injection). <a href="http://www.angelfire.com/dc/igone/images/zcwire.jpg"></a></font></font><a href="http://www.angelfire.com/dc/igone/images/zcwire.jpg"><font size="2">Installing
a ZC motor into a DX?&nbsp; You'll want this wiring diagram to make
life easier.</font></a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><font size="2" color="#FFFFFF">You can use the ECU from either the
U.S. CRX Si, 88-89 Integra 5 speed, or the Japanese CRX Si which is
what the ZC came out of anyway.&nbsp; The best choice would be the
Integra one since it has more aggressive fuel and timing maps as
well as a higher redline than our CRX Si ECU and its readily
available, .&nbsp; The Japanese Si ECU is probally just as good but
they are very hard to get and have a speed governor that is set at
too low for most peoples taste.</font></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><font size="2" color="#FFFFFF">The motor bolts right up to the
stock motor mounts and to the tranny.&nbsp;&nbsp; While the HF
tranny does bolt onto the ZC you will definatly want to use an Si
tranny because of the much better gearing, you may even want to
consider this if you have a DX.&nbsp;</font></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>
<p style="margin-top: 1; margin-bottom: 1"><font size="2" color="#FFFFFF">Replace
the clutch.&nbsp; As long as everything is apart it doesn't require
any extra work to replace it.&nbsp; A performance clutch is recommended
because of the ZC's greater output.</font></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>
<p style="margin-top: 1; margin-bottom: 1"><font size="2" color="#FFFFFF">The
motor only weighs about 25 pounds more than the regular CRX one so
handling is not affected.</font></li>
<li>
<p style="margin-top: 1; margin-bottom: 1"><font size="2">Here is a <a href="http://www.angelfire.com/dc/igone/images/zcdistwires.jpg">picture</a>
showing which two wires need to disconnected from the distributor
and attached to the exhaust cam sensor.</font></li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">&nbsp;</font></p>
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td vAlign="top" width="22%">
<p align="left"><em><strong><font color="#FFFFFF" face="Arial Narrow">Maintnance</font></strong></em></p>
</td>
<td width="78%">
<ul>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Spark plugs</u> ~ 88-91 CRX or 89 Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Distributor</u> ~ 88-89 Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Timing belt</u> ~ 88 Prelude Si 2.0&nbsp;</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Throttle body + TPS</u> ~ 88-91 CRX Si</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Cap and rotor</u> ~ 88-91 CRX or 88-89
Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Head gasket</u> ~ 89 Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Intake gasket</u> ~ 89 Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Exhaust gasket</u> ~ 89 Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Water pump</u> ~ 89-91 CRX</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Oil pan gasket</u> ~ 88-91 CRX or 89
Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Oil filter</u> ~ 89 Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Spark plug wires</u> ~ 89 Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Header</u> ~ the 88-91 CRX header will
fit but requires some porting to work properly since the exhaust
ports on the ZC are shifted slightly to the side</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Thermostat</u> ~ 88-91 CRX</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Rod and Main bearings</u> - 88-89 Integra</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Pistons</u> ~ 88-89 Integra are exact
matches for ZC pistons</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF"><u>Gaskets</u> ~ the top half of the motor
uses a 89 Integra set. </font></li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">&nbsp;</font></p>
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td vAlign="top" width="23%">
<p align="left"><em><strong><font color="#FFFFFF" face="Arial Narrow">Notes</font></strong></em></p>
</td>
<td width="77%">
<ul>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">Stock ZC rods are said to survive up to
about 200hp / 8000rpm's</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">Shaving the head .8mm will give a cr of
about 10:1 while a shave of 1.4mm gives a ratio of 10.6:1</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">The upper timing belt cover on the ZC may
rub on the bottom of the hood.&nbsp; Most people solve this problem
by just leaving it off.&nbsp; Another solution is to put small
1/8&quot; washers in between the two parts of the drivers side motor
mount, this lowers that side of the motor just enough to clear the
hood.</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">Modifications to your CRX are done at your
own risk.</font></li>
</ul>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">&nbsp;</font></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="23%">
<p align="left"><em><strong><font color="#FFFFFF" face="Arial Narrow">Performance</font></strong></em></p>
<p align="right"><font color="#FFFFFF">&nbsp;</font></p>
</td>
<td width="77%">
<ul>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">Stock ZC powering CRX's can vary alot
depending on engine condition.</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">ZC with header, exhaust, throttle body, cold
air intake and an integra ecu can run as fast as the mid 14's to the
upper 15's. </font></li>
</ul>
<p><font color="#FFFFFF">&nbsp;</font></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td vAlign="top" width="23%">
<p align="left"><strong><em><font color="#FFFFFF" face="Arial Narrow">I
Need One</font></em></strong></p>
</td>
<td width="77%">
<ul>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">Price $350 - $600</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">Nippon (Cali)1-562-272-4050</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">John's Foreign Engines (Wash State)
1-360-571-8505</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">PFI in (Colorado) 1-888-296-3463</font>
<li><font color="#FFFFFF">Everyplace that sells the ZC claims that
they have about 30k miles on them, but keep in mind that there is no
actual way to know this for sure.&nbsp; Some of the better sellers
will perform a compression test and provide you with the results.</font></li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>

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